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E-quations: waves    

Describing waves     Types of waves            

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Chris
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A wave is a means of transferring energy between two points. Here the energy Cris uses to swing his arm, travels as a wave along the rope, and moves the ball at the other end.

What are waves?

Describing waves

To study waves we need ways to describe them. The good thing about waves is that, no matter what type of wave you are dealing with, you can use the same basic terms and definitions:

Wavelength (Greek letter lambda) is the distance before the wave repeats. It is measured between any two points that are in phase (at the same stage in the repeat cycle).

  sine wave with crests marked sine wave with troughs marked sine wave with two points in phase marked

Wavelength is often measured from maximum to maximum (left), but it can also be from minimum to minimum (middle), or between any two points that are in phase (right).

 

The amplitude (italic a) is the size of the oscillation - the maximum displacement from the equilibrium position.

Oceanographers are often interested in the wave height (capital H) of waves on the sea surface. This is the distance between the crest (top) of a wave and the trough (lowest point).

  sine wave with amplitude marked sine wave with height marked

Amplitude (left) and wave height (right).
 

The period (capital P) of a wave is the time it takes to repeat.

The frequency (Italic f) is the number of repeats made in one second. As you can see frequency and period are related by f equals 1 over T (Word equation).

The wave velocity (Greek letter Nu) is the speed at which the wave travels. A wave that takes T seconds to travel past a point in space travels at the velocity Mu equals Lambda over T. (Word equation).

  wave anmiation

In one wave period a full wavelength travels past a fixed point in space. At the end of this period the first maximum has reached the original position of the second maximum, and the wave has travelled a distance equal to one wavlength. This means the speed of the wave is one wavelength per wave period; in other words Mu equals Lambda over T

NOC logo Last update:
19 January 2009
Contact:
o4s@noc.soton.ac.uk
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